Millions of candied fruit
To eat cheaply and buy little things, go to the Recova market. There are crafts and millions of candied fruit. It's tiny but cozy. On the upper floor there are several simple restaurants. I chose the one that looked like a small outdoor shed with tables located next to a balcony. I ate a fish called pomfret, which is apparently very popular. It was well prepared, with salad and I ordered half a bottle white wine although it was a bit warm, but they had no objection to putting it in an ice bucket. I don't remember how much I paid, but it was the cheapest meal of the trip.