It was our first day of travelling. We left Valencia at noon with the van, and before nightfall we had crossed into France. Just past Perpignan, we decided it was time to find a place to sleep. We did not know the area, we had no guidebook, no GPS, and our map did not show any camp sites until at least near the city of Narbonne. The French south coast is dotted with inland seas and land arms enclosing part of the Mediterranean. On the first of these, one of us put their finger, saying something like "uhm, Leucate ... This place has to be pretty. Are we near there?". And why not? Ten kilometers from the main road exit, we found a beach between two seas, with an island in the middle, and the town of Leucate as a decorative background, and a free camp site full of travellers: vans, caravans, tents from all countries. We could hardly believe it. We managed to find a place just off the island, in the sand dunes. We couldn't believe it. We made our camp and prepared to spend the best night I remember in years. So, if you go north on the Mediterranean coast and do not know where to sleep, remember: there is always Leucate.